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GLASS was made by potters in Egypt for glazing stone
beads, as early as 3500 B.C. It is made naturally from a fusion of sand (silica), soda & lime, which produces clear
glass. This fusion can happen by accident, eg: a lightning strike, where the right ingredients happen to be adjacent
to each other.

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| Flower angels |
When glass is man-made, other ingredients, such as potash,
lead oxide and boric oxide are added. Some of these ingredients are used to make clear glass, to colour it, ie stained
glass, or to obtain a frosted effect, which is also found on stained glass.
STAINED GLASS can be a misleading
name, as many people assume, that it is ordinary/float/window glass, which has been 'stained', ie: coloured afterwards.
As a medium, the term generally refers to glass, that has been coloured by adding metallic salts during its manufacturing.
For instance: iron is mixed in to create green 'stained' glass, while gold or selenium produces red 'stained'
glass.

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| Rectangles |
By popular request ??!! Here are the basic STEPS TO CREATE A STAINED GLASS PICTURE
1. Select & order/buy stained glass - you need a large
'stock' of stained glass as there are so many colours, textures etc 2. Choose
a pattern: an existing pattern or Adapt a photograph/drawing or painting or
Design your own 3. Duplicate the selected pattern x 3 and size it up or down, depending
on the required final size 4. No.1 - with pattern shears, cut out all shapes to use as a
template and for score lines on the stained glass No.2 - to be kept as a reference guide No.3 - may be helpful to plan the colour scheme, using colour pencils/crayons
5. Select the exact pieces of stained glass to be used; this may be as many as a dozen
different types/colours. This is very exciting, but also very daunting - not only because stained
glass is very expensive, but also due to the amazing variety of stained glass available. From
plain translucent colours, through streakies, ripples, embossed with leaf patterns to opalescent 6. Mark stained glass using the pattern templates 7. Score along the marked line 8. Break/cut
along the marked line - easier said than done - especially curves !! 9. Put all the cut pieces together on the
reference template 10. Using grozier pliers 'nibble' away all excess glass, that is outwith
the template markings 11.With an (electric) grinder, smooth all edges, so the pieces fit together
like a jigsaw. Grinding the very sharp edges prevents the copper-foil and fingers being cut
!! It also helps the copper-foil to adhere better to the stained glass 12. Wash and dry
all cut and ground pieces to remove any 'grinding' residue, which would stop the copper-foil
adhering properly 13. Copper-foil is a paper-backed adhesive copper tape, available in several
widths & backing colours 14. Centre the foil on the edge of the glass; apply slowly & steadily and
remove the backing paper as you go 15. Crimp the foil over the sides of the piece of stained glass - both sides 16.
Using a burnisher, press all foiled areas firmly in place 17. Arrange all pieces of stained glass according to the pattern
& keep together with push-pins 18. Apply flux to the copper-foiled seams, at the 'junction'
points where the glass pieces meet 19. Solder these points, which will hold the stained
glass pattern together 20. Flux all foiled seams & solder together 21. Repeat on other side 22. Remove
all 'spare' beads & spatters of solder carefully from the glass without touching
the proper soldered seams 23. Wash gently with soapy water & dry 24. Panels: mount panel in a U shaped
lead channel 25. Solder all corners - both sides 26. Attach (solder) rings/links to accomodate a chain/wire/nylon 27. Suncatchers: attach (solder) ring/link for hanging 28. Finish with Patina (black or bronze) to stop oxidisation
of solder - both sides 29. Wash again carefully with soapy water & dry 30. Polish with soft dry cloth 31. Photograph for the record & Portfolio 32. Update website if required 33. Packing & Posting for commissioned
artwork

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| Marsh Cinquefoil |
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